Nuwe resepte

James Peard se bekroonde Lucky Peach Magazine het uiteindelik 'n webwerf

James Peard se bekroonde Lucky Peach Magazine het uiteindelik 'n webwerf


David Chang se Lucky Peach het sy internetdebuut gemaak met 'n Tumblr -blog, maar nou het dit uiteindelik 'n amptelike webwerf

Nie net is die Lucky Peach-webwerf uiteindelik hier nie, maar dit lyk ook heerlik.

Lucky Peach, die opvallende, James Beard bekroonde tydskrif vir die beste skryf van voedsel, het uiteindelik 'n eie domein gevind. Die tydskrif is sedert 2011 'n kleurvolle en nadenkende steunpilaar van die koswêreldwêreld, en nou het dit sy jarelange Tumblr-bladsy in 'n pragtig eenvoudige webwerf verander www.luckypeach.com.

Met die webwerf kan lesers deur die funksies van Lucky Peach navigeer: die verhelderde verhaal op die oomblik, geskryf deur Peter Meehan, verklaar ramen amptelik dood. 'N Ander kenmerk van David Chang ondersoek hoe die internet werk alles behalwe innovasie in die ramen-sfeer. U kan ook resepte ontdek (ironies genoeg, die resep wat tans aangebied word, is Momofuku se tweede herhaling van sy ramen). Maar die grootste trekpleister is die interaktiewe Atlas, waar u aanbevole restaurante regoor die wêreld kan verken deur eenvoudig op 'n streek op die wêreldkaart te klik.

'Daar is geen tekort aan kosplekke nie, waarvan baie beter doen as wat ons ooit kon doen. Daar is diegene wat die nuus goed doen, en ander wat 'n beter lewe as 'n goeie lewe bied as wat u lei, 'skryf Meehan in die inleiding tot die Lucky Peach -webwerf. 'Ons sal dus bly by wat ons die beste doen: elke maand neem ons 'n tema en pluk dit raak en ondersoek waarheen ons neus ons ook al lei.'

Dit klink asof Lucky Peach ten minste by die maandelikse tydskrifformaat bly, in plaas daarvan om elke dag geskrewe inhoud uit te haal.


Ek het 'n pot in Tennessee neergesit

deur John Jeremiah Sullivan

In die tuin van die huis waarin ek grootgeword het - ek kyk dit nou op Google Maps, satelliet- en straatuitsigte word in gelyktydige vensters oopgemaak (plus 'n vaste eiendom wat my vertel dat dit nie eens 'n volle half akker land) - daar het drie vrugte gegroei. Die man wat die huis gebou het, was 'n priester. Ons priester, eintlik, in die St. Paul's Episcopal sentrum. Hy het my gedoop. Sy naam was Fallis, uitgespreek as 'phallus'. Die dokter wat my gebring en besny het, is Hymen genoem. Die Fallis -familie sou die bome en bosse iewers in die vyftigerjare geplant het. Of hulle nou wou of nie, hulle het 'n bietjie kultuur aan ons klein sektor van die ontwikkeling van 'n rollende huis oorgelaat. In die agterplaas het ons 'n volwasse perske gehad wat my ma op somersoggende sou besoek. Sy het stukke op ons graan gesny. Daar was ook 'n appelboom met 'n variëteit aan bitter appels wat niemand in ons gesin kon weet nie - kleintjies, heldergroen met 'n kwashaal van skuurrooi toe hulle ryp was. Die vrugte het alles tot niet gegaan. Maar ons het ten minste gesien hoe dit groei en af ​​en toe gesels oor hoe 'n persoon die appels kan gebruik, my ma was vol vertroue dat daar 'mense was wat u kon vertel hoe om dit te doen'.

Ongeveer die derde vrug, die kwepers wat op 'n groot bos langs die oprit gegroei het, het niemand ooit so iets verseker nie. Die kwepers was vreemd. Ons het nie geweet wat ons daarvan moet maak nie, figuurlik of letterlik. Het mense dit geëet? Hulle kon uit die ruimte gekom het. In werklikheid op Sesame straat daar was vroeër 'n skets wat twee vreemdelinge betrek het. Hulle kon nie die vrugte op die vrugtebome van hul planeet bereik nie. Die een vreemdeling was te kort, die ander kon nie sy arms buig nie. Toe dit opkom, kyk ek na ons kweebos buite. Buitelandse nektariens: so het hulle gelyk. Pragtig, besef ek nou. Soos 'n kruising tussen 'n suurlemoen en peer. (Hulle simboliseer vrugbaarheid.) Op die straatbeeld was die kweebos nog daar, maar in die satellietbeeld wat vyf jaar later geneem is, kan jy sien dat dit op die grond gesny is. In die gras waar dit was, is daar 'n bleek, amper perfekte sirkel.

Ek het 'n paar dekades lank nie aan die kweperbos gedink nie, totdat ek verlede jaar by 'n ou vriend in LA gaan kuier het, 'n man met wie ek in aanraking was, maar wat ek al jare lank nie gesien het nie. Ek het die middag die stad ingevlieg en was veronderstel om met dagbreek te vertrek - dit was een van daardie situasies waarin dit nie sinvol was om te gaan slaap nie. Jy martel jouself net. Kevin West: 'n vriend van die kollege. Ons was in sy woonstel in Koreatown, 'n lekker pad met 'n uitsig op die stadsligte, hoewel merkbaar kleiner as sy ou plek in Laurel Canyon. Hy het onlangs sy lewe verkort. Hy het 'n bottel goeie rogwisky en 'n paar olywe gehad. Op 'n stadium het hy vir my verduidelik dat alle moderne vrugte wat in blikkies en potte bewaar word, afkomstig is van 'n ontdekking wat die Romeine gemaak het - dat as jy die andersins oneetbare kweper in heuning gaar maak en dit in potte verseël, dit soet word en uitstekende konfyt maak . Kweepeer in heuning, as 'n bewaring, versprei oor die hele wêreld. Die Portugese het dit genoem marmelada. Marmelade.

Kevin het as junior by ons klein skool in Tennessee opgedaag, en dit lyk op die een of ander manier ouer. Hy het die voorafgaande paar jaar by Deep Springs, die kollege in die weste, deurgebring waar u u eie kos verbou en beeste te perd kweek terwyl u oor Aristoteles debatteer. Voordat het hy grootgeword in 'n ware holler, in Oos -Tennessee, waar sy gesin al byna 150 jaar gevestig was. Sy selfbeskrywe "blommekind" -moeder het sy liefde vir boeke en skulpe gekoester. Maar hy het ook 'n mode -ding aan die gang gehad. In my eerste geheue-beeld van hom loop hy oor die quad in 'n safari-kortbroek en 'n pers nekdoek, sy hare soos dit bly, volronde butterscotch. Dra 'n soort tas. Hy het met 'n piepklein geel dieselmotor gery en 'n sigaret met sy een hand gerol en in vlam gevat. Binne enkele dae het een van die geestigste kampuswagters hom die Jolly Rancher genoem.

Maar toe hy hom ontmoet, het die woord pretensieus nooit ingekom nie my kop. Hy was te duidelik besig met Kevin, beide besig om hom uit te vind en uit te vind. Twee paaie was oop toe hy studeer - klassieke tale aan Berkeley studeer of assistent word Vogue. Hy het laasgenoemde gekies en na New York verhuis, waarna hy gou gehuur word W tydskrif, waar hy hul redakteur in Parys geword het. Jare lank het u met hom oor die telefoon gepraat, en hy sou net teruggekom het om êrens op 'n eiland te bly met modelle. Hy het in afsonderlike gevalle saam met prins Charles en Puffy gesels (in laasgenoemde geval het hy op 'n manier 'n klomp ander Deep Springs -alums ingesmokkel, geklee soos hippie -boemelaars - die vrou aan die tou het twyfelagtig gelyk totdat Tom Ford in 'n fluweelbaadjie verskyn het en almal na binne gevoer het ). Toe ek sy verhale hoor, het ek altyd die ou Alfa Romeo Spiders voorgestel soos die in Minagting. 'Swem swem, songoud', was die kenmerkende kenmerkende beskrywing van Kevin oor hierdie verlore naweke.

Ek sal nie lieg nie, dit was vreemd om hom daar tussen die mooi mense voor te stel. Nie dat hy nie behoort nie, dit nie kon uittrek nie, maar toe ek hom die beste ken, was hy 'n boekagtige persoon. Dit is hoe ons verbind is. 'N Gesamentlike vriend van ons het daaroor gepraat dat hy hom eendag in trane in die vierwiel sou vind omdat 'n professor een van sy gunsteling boeke besig was om te "vernietig". Hy was verplig om uit die kamer te hardloop. Toe ons praat, het dit meestal gegaan oor Shakespeare se sonnetreeks, waaroor hy in daardie dae 'n obsessie gehad het. Hy het 'n hopelose verwarde verliefdheid op 'n pragtige lesbiese vrou gehad. Hoe het die Kevin die onvermydelike morele onwelvoeglikheid van die ultra rykes oorleef? Dit was onmoontlik om nie te vermoed dat die ou geleerde/soeker/cowboy -persoon verveeld raak nie, maar rusteloos.

Hy het depressief geraak. Hy het uit die 'mag wêreld' geval. Hy was min of meer gestrand in Kalifornië, waar hy gewerk het WSe Weskus -redakteur vir 'n rukkie, maar het geen wortels gehad nie. Hy het 'n heimwee begin voel wat hom liggaamlik siek gemaak het. Maar soos die meeste van ons wou hy nie regtig huis toe gaan nie. 'Ken u die liedjie,' het hy gevra, '' How Ya Gonna Keep 'Em Down on the Farm (After They've seen Paree)'? "

Dit was in elk geval nie die ooste van Tennessee wat hy gemis het nie. Met ander woorde nie die fisiese plek nie. Dit was iets oor die lewe wat hy daar geken het, die gevoel dat u alledaagse werklikheid in ooreenstemming is met die natuurlike wêreld op 'n manier wat verder as dag/nag gaan. Hy het baie oor die plaas van sy grootouers gedink. Sy ouma was ''n redelik aktiewe bewaarder', het hy gesê, wat vrugte en vleis beteken, maar ook meer as dit. 'Sy sou nie so aan haarself gedink het nie,' het hy gesê. '' N Deel van die plaaslewe was om kos op te sit. Sy het 'n spens vol ham en spek gehad. 'Die deel van Tennessee het eers in die veertigerjare elektrisiteit gekry', het hy gesê, 'so in die geheue het u 'n voedselkultuur gehad wat teruggekeer het na die voor-industriële era.' Hy het goeie herinneringe gehad aan sy ouma se ingelegde beet. 'Veertien dae-piekels-'n gegiste piekel. Sy het ook hierdie aarbei -vrieskonfyt gemaak wat baie lekker was. ” Die blikkie en rok het met die seisoene beweeg, en binne die seisoene moes u die vrugte en bessies op die regte tyd pluk. Elke bondel was 'n nuwe klein chemie -eksperiment. Dinge kan skeefloop. U het altyd 'n pot in die kombuis dopgehou en die veranderings daarvan waargeneem. Dit het die hele huis 'n horlosie gegee.

Op 'n dag maak Kevin gereed om mense te eet - dit was ongeveer vier jaar gelede - en wou aarbeie as nagereg bedien. Hy ry na die Santa Monica -boeremark en koop 'n reuse -woonstel ryp aarbeie, tien pond, baie meer as wat sy gaste sou eet. Tuis kyk hy af na hierdie pragtige bessies en besef met die soort animistiese empatie wat 'n kind kan voel vir nie -dierlike voorwerpe dat die helfte daarvan waarskynlik gaan verrot, en hy dink vir die eerste keer in baie jare aan die aarbeikonfyt. Toe hy die volgende dag wakker word, begin hy probeer om dit reg te kry. Het huis toe gebel vir hulp met die resep. Kook die vrugte in suiker.

'Vrugte wat met suiker gekook word, is gelyk aan konfyt,' het hy gesê. 'Die konfyt was 'n totale gemors. Eetbaar, net nie baie goed nie. ”

As hy die smaak so goed soos sy hare kon laat smaak, sou dit die geur en tekstuur herskep, sou dit wees om die ou lewe voort te sit en dit in sy wêreld te bring. 'N Verbindingsdraad. So het hy gevoel.

As u deesdae sê dat iemand 'obsessief' is oor iets, beteken dit gewoonlik dat hulle gisteraand daaroor op die internet gelees het, maar dit lyk akkuraat om te sê dat Kevin 'n obsessie met gebak het. Dit het geleidelik nie die enigste ding geword waaroor hy gepraat het nie, maar die ding waaroor u altyd kon dink. Hy het langlaufreise begin maak om vrugte op te spoor wat vermoedelik goed was. Hy het probeer om dinge wat hy nog nooit gesien het nie, te bewaar, dinge wat sy ouma sou moes laat lê en haarself waai. Hy het my een keer 'n foto van 'n Boeddha se sitroentjie gestuur. Dit was 'n onaardse geel en het soos 'n inkvis gelyk. As een van die geeste in Pac-Man heldergeel was en in 'n monsterpot gebêre was, waar dit mettertyd verdwyn het, sou dit soos hierdie ding gelyk het. 'Dit gisteraand op die boeremark in Altadena gevind,' het hy geskryf. 'My eerste gedagte was: ek wil dit kry, ek wil dit bewaar.

Hy het biblioteke besoek om ou resepteboeke te lees. Hy het op 'n stadium 'n kook-chemie-klas gevolg om meer te weet oor wat met die vrugte en groente op molekulêre vlak gebeur. Hy het kontak gemaak met ander gefixeerde tipes in die wêreld van nuwe-primitiewe bewaring. Maar hoofsaaklik het hy honderde ure alleen in die kombuis deurgebring om te eksperimenteer. Ek sou e-posse van hom kry oor sy stryd. Jellies was 'temperamentvol', het hy geskryf. Hulle was soos jong soprane wat arias sing: jy moet daar sit en hoop dat hulle nie sal kraak nie. Veral as u nie die kommersiële pektien, wat hy vermy het, gebruik nie, en verkies om op die vrugte self te vertrou vir hul natuurlike toevoer. Maar op die manier was dit 'maklik om stroop te kry - dit is 'n mislukking'. Hy het konfyt, jellie en ander konkoksies gemaak van strandpruime, kardone, kussentjie, damsons, eiers, vlierbessies, venkel, peperwortel, huckleberries, limettas, medlars, moerbeie en nasturtium peule. Hy het kweper behou: onder leiding van Oregon-piekelkonfyt-guru Linda Ziedrich, het hy 'n stroop van kweepeer gemaak, nie 'n stroop vir ongelukke nie, maar 'n doelbewuste een, gegeur met geranium.

Dit het op een vlak gelyk na die soort lewensfase wat jou vriende deurmaak, waar jy dinge sê soos: "Maak dit hulle gelukkig? Want dit is al waarvoor ek omgee. ” Maar mettertyd het dit duidelik geword dat iets dieper aan die gang was. My vrou het een keer 'n student gehad, in Noord-Carolina, wat 'n springvakansie na 'n filmstel gegaan het, en te midde daarvan het die hele departement 'n baie kort e-pos van hom gekry wat lui: "Found my passion y 'almal." Dit is wat gebeur het.

Met hierdie passie het daar 'n ander, quasi-ideologiese, byna-oorlewingskant ontwikkel tot Kevin se belangstelling in die ou voorafgekoelde wêreld. Ek het 'n e-pos van hom waarin hy die tuisbewaringskultuur waarmee hy grootgeword het beskryf het as ''n sjabloon vir hoe om te oorleef in die post-olie/post-globale/post-apokalips toekoms ...'

... kweek u eie kos, bewaar dit tuis, oorleef. Een van die groot probleme met klimaatsverandering is waar ons toegang tot bewerkbare grond en skoon water kan beveilig om voedsel te verbou, en hoe ons persoonlike vaardighede kan ontwikkel en kan skakel met 'n plaaslike landboukonteks wat ware voedsel onafhanklikheid moontlik maak - in ander woorde, herontdek die dorpslewe. Dit is die Jefferson -ideaal wat gebreek word deur die donker prisma van hedendaagse pessimisme oor die toekoms. Ek dink die oorblywende landbougemeenskappe in die suidelike Appalachen bied 'n lewensvatbare model. Daarteenoor, nie ver van my pa se plek nie, is 'n demonstrasie van een van die ernstigste foute wat ons as 'n nasie gemaak het, naamlik om ryk landbougrond uit produksie te haal deur dit in steriele voorstede te verander. Ek kan jou wys waar my grootouers se plaas verkoop en verander het in 'n behuisingsontwikkeling - sommige van die strate is na hulle vernoem, wat hulle sou geminag het. Daar is eintlik 'n plek waar John Riley West Road met Eloise West Road kruis. Bitter…

Kevin het 'n boek geskryf oor dit alles, genaamd SDie seisoen: 'n Cook -gids vir tuismaak, inmaak en bewaring, wat hierdie somer deur Knopf gepubliseer word. Gedeeltelik kookboek, gedeeltelik manifes en gedeeltelik kripto-memoires, dit is geletterd en liries en fanaties goed nagevors. Ook waarskynlik baie handig as u tuis wil bewaar of wil wees. Al is u dit nie, is dit die soort kookboek wat u met plesier kan lees. Byvoorbeeld, ek - ek kan nie sien dat ek binnekort ingemaak of geskuur word nie. Ek wil, ek voel die aantrekkingskrag, maar 'n persoon moet sy beperkings ken, en as jy grootgeword het op die broodrooster van Pillsbury, vir ontbyt en soms middagete (wat de hel), selfs die eenvoudige stadiums van kook met suiker, en die deksel verseël , ensovoorts, kan werklike hindernisse bied. Selfs ek kon die boek geniet. Dit bevat meer as 200 resepte, maar word ook deurskryf met klein opstelle - oor bewaring, voedselversameling, tuinmaak, familie en wat dit beteken om 'n tweede handeling te vind.

Ek het 'n paar bokse Kevin se konfyt en piekels bestel wat hy in klein hoeveelhede verkoop en ruil. Om dit net te hê, het 'n uitwerking op die atmosfeer van ons kombuis en by uitbreiding op die res van die huis. Dit is soos klein potjies gedistilleerde sonlig wat daar op die tafel sit. Deur hulle het ek die skoonheid van 'n baie goeie konfyt ontdek, naamlik dat as u dit op 'n roosterbrood sit - die moeilikste om te ruïneer van alle menslike voedsel - skielik, amper sonder om te bedoel, u u dag goed begin het, met 'n oomblik smaak wat die moeite werd is om oor te bly. My ma het 'n paar van Kevin se Scotch-marmelade besoek en geëet en gesê dat dit haar sterk terugblikke in die kinderjare gee.

My gunsteling van al die flesse, die een wat ek die hartseerste gehad het om te sien, was net die klewerige vlekke van 'n pers skrum wat nie op die glas was nie, was die jong berryjellie. Ek het Kevin 'n boodskap gestuur waarin ek hom gevra het oor die geskiedenis van hierdie vrug, wat ek altyd gedink het 'n vervaardiger van energiedrankies was om vae peerbessies te beskryf. Kevin het geantwoord dat die oorsprong daarvan meer ingewikkeld was as dit. Dit is inderdaad onlangs ontwikkel, in evolusionêre terme, maar in die 1920's deur 'n man met die naam Boysen. Hy het in die Eerste Wêreldoorlog in die weermag gedien, en toe dit eindig, verhuis hy saam met sy vrou na 'n klein plaas in Kalifornië. Daar het hy begin eksperimenteer met bessiebasters, deur stuifmeel te meng. Uiteindelik bereik hy die boysenberry-wat vir my smaak na 'n beslag van bessies, met 'n druiwe-sappige soetigheid, maar wyd genoeg in u smaak om nie te soet te lyk nie. 'Dit is een van die bessies,' het Kevin geskryf. 'Dit het 'n duidelike verwantskap met die wilde swartbessies wat ek opgeneem het toe ek grootgeword het.

Boysen het probeer om van sy bessie ontslae te raak. Hy het selfs 'n patentaansoek begin invul. Hy het egter 'n fratsongeluk gehad - vyftien voet geval en sy rug gebreek. Die plaas waarop hy die bessie ontwikkel het, is verkoop. Sy bessiebeddings het amper onder onkruid verdwyn. Eers jare later het hy 'n besoek van twee mans ontvang, waarvan een Walter Knott was, van Knott's Berry Farm. Hulle het van Boysen se bessie gehoor van ander boere wat dit geproe het, en wou dit self probeer. Hy het hulle na die ou veld gelei, waar hulle 'n paar wingerdstokke vir oorplanting kon red.

Nou was Boysen se bessies op my tafel, in die een of ander vorm, of vroeër. Terwyl die fles aangehou het, het dit iets ekspressiefs gelyk-wat oud is, hoef nie outyds te wees nie. Dit word wedergebore. En met geduld en vaardigheid kan jy dit vasvang. U kan dit in hegtenis neem.

Sewe artikels uit Lucky Peach is vanjaar genomineer vir James Beard -toekennings. Ons plaas almal hierdie week vir u leesgenot.

Bogenoemde artikel verskyn oorspronklik in die Travel Issue of Lucky Peach, 'n kwartaallikse joernaal oor voedsel en skryf. As u hiervan hou - of selfs net baie daarvan hou - hoekom nie teken in op die tydskrif? Besoek ten minste ons webwerf of volg ons Facebook en Twitter.

John Jeremiah Sullivan dra 'n bydraende skrywer tot die New York Times Magazine en die skrywer mees onlangs van Pulphead: opstelle. Hy woon in Wilmington, Noord -Carolina, saam met sy vrou en dogters.


Mexikaanse kookkuns beklemtoon

Die meeste huiskokke sal meer belangstel in die naamgewing van Diana Kennedy in die Cookbook Hall of Fame. Kennedy het 'n groot deel van haar lewe deurgebring om die tradisionele kookkuns en bestanddele van Mexiko te leer en te bewaar, 'n missie wat haar deur die hele land stuur op soek na ontwykende resepte.

Haar eerste kookboek, Die kombuis van Mexiko, is geskryf op grond van navorsing met huiskokke regoor Mexiko en het haar as die voorste gesag oor die kombuis gevestig. Dit bly die belangrikste werk oor die onderwerp.

Die toekennings van die Beard Foundation vereer diegene wat die voetspore van Baard volg, wat beskou is as die dekaan van Amerikaanse kookkuns toe hy in 1985 oorlede is. .

Sommige bekende gesigte het Vrydag uitsendingstoekennings behaal. Martha Stewart is vereer vir haar openbare televisiereeks Martha Stewart se kookskool in die kategorie op televisie gebaseer op die ateljee, terwyl Anthony Bourdain die eer van die televisie ter plaatse vir T behaal hethy Mind of a Chef, ook op openbare televisie. Uitstekende voedselpersoonlikheid of gasheer het vir Food Network 's Ina Garten vir haar gegaan Kaalvoet Contessa: Terug na die basiese beginsels.

Die groot wenner in die joernalistiek -toekennings was David Chang's Lucky Peach, 'n kwartaallikse bekendstelling in 2011 wat vinnig een van die beste voedseltydskrifte geword het. Alhoewel die tydskrif self nie Vrydag vereer is nie, het sy skrywers toekennings in vyf verskillende kategorieë gewen - humor, kos en kultuur, persoonlike opstel, profiel en die MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.


Redaksionele resensies

Resensie

& ldquo Hierdie verreikende kompendium dekodeer die kookkolonne van die hele Amerikaanse Suide. . . . Garnale en korrels, gebraaide bologna, vyf soorte mieliebrood en mdashit & rsquos hier. Brock, 'n gevierde sjef, is een van die groot praktiese historici van die Suidelike kookkuns, en hier fokus hy net soveel op die hoekom en op wat. & Rdquo
& mdash The New Yorker

& ldquoSean Brock is geneig om diep in kulinêre konyngate te duik, en dank God. Sy nuutste kookboek, South, bou voort op die intellektuele, kulinêre en historiese werk van sy boek uit 2014,   Heritage, maar verbreed die lens van die Laagland tot by die Appalachianberge, waar hy grootgeword het. . . . Ek sal hierdie boek vir ewig in my versameling hou, want niemand wat vandag kook nie, doen meer om die suidelike kookvlam te help brand. & Rdquo
& mdash New York Times

As u daarvan hou om te kook, kyk dan na Sean Brock & rsquos   South, 'n opvolg van sy bekroonde   Heritage. Brock, gebore en getoë in die Appalachiese berge, is bekend vir sy eindelose kreatiwiteit en het ongelooflike restaurante. . . en vier die suidelike bestanddele. Nou is hy ook bekend vir twee van die dekades en die mooiste en gesaghebbendste kookboeke uit die suide. & Rdquo  
& mdash Southern Living

& ldquo Hierdie boek is ongetwyfeld die beste manier om 'n idee te kry van die vele mikrokulture en klimaat wat [die Amerikaanse Suide] vul. . . . As u 'n herinnering nodig het dat u nie ver hoef te reis om iets nuuts te beleef nie, is dit dit. & Rdquo
& mdash Cond & eacute Nast Traveler

& ldquoBrock & rsquos -perspektief op die geregte van die Golfkus, Laeveld en Appalachia bied 'n nuwe begrip van kulturele tradisies en 'n groter respek vir die mense wie se omstandighede en plaaslike oorvloed die manier waarop 'n groot voorbeeld van die land eet, gevorm het. & rdquo
& mdashHouston Chronicle

& ldquoSean Brock & rsquos boek Suid, hoewel dit nie spesifiek 'n groenteboek is nie, leer hy groentekook en bewaring vanuit 'n ouma en rsquos tuinperspektief. Die hoofstuk met groente en sye, vol tradisionele resepte, maak dat ek reguit kombuis toe wil hardloop. & Rdquo
& mdash Chicago Tribune

& ldquoBrock het 'n groot aantal rolle onder die knie gekry: sjef, herlewingsbewaarder, argivaris, plaas-tot-tafel-evangelis, die Duane Allman van groente, die Alan Lomax van erfpitte, 'n resepter van plesier en geskiedenis in gelyke happies. . . . Die mag van Brock & rsquos se invloed kan 'n keerpunt wees in die manier waarop die kombuis tuis en in die breër kookkuns beskou word. . . . Sy tweede kookboek,   SUID: noodsaaklike resepte en nuwe ontdekkings, dien op baie maniere as 'n samestelling met die grootste treffers. & Rdquo
& mdash Garden & amp Gun

'n Fassinerende gastronomiese gids vir die mees basiese kookkuns in die suide. . . . Verweef met 'n belangrike historiese konteks en Sean & rsquos se persoonlike diep passie vir die streek wat hy tuis noem, sal hierdie resepte u Heilige Graal van die Suidelike kookkuns word. & Rdquo
& mdash Smaak van die Suide

& ldquo [Brock het] die Suidelike kookkuns geneem en gehelp om dit verby vermoeide stereotipes van bloot swaar, vet en goedkoop. In sy nuwe kookboek   Suid duik die wenner van die James Beard-prys diep om die verskille in die streek- en rsquos-kookkuns van Appalachia tot Lowcountry te ondersoek en kyk na klassieke soos baber, mieliebrood en meer. & Rdquo
& mdash Robb -verslag

Sean Brock 's South volg ons in die voetspore van kookkundiges uit die suide, soos Edna Lewis en John Egerton, om die gewilde Amerikaanse opvatting van die Suidelike kookkuns te heroorweeg as iets wat beperk is tot maanpastei en gebakte hoender. Vanaf die inleiding is Brock net so geïnteresseerd in die verdediging en definisie van die belangrikheid van die kookkuns in die suide, as om die leser te leer hoe om sy eie benadering tot kookkuns in die suide te herskep. Hy voer aan dat die erfenis -tradisies van die Suide 'n belangrike deel uitmaak van die sosio -kulinêre geskiedenis van Amerika en dat dit net so ernstig opgeneem moet word as die kookkuns van meer algemeen erkende plaaslike kookkuns. . . . Die gedetailleerde benadering van Brock sorg vir boeiende, meeslepende lees. & Rdquo
& mdash Austin Chronicle
 
Langs Ken Burns en rsquos se glorieryke onlangse meerdelige dokumentêre Country Music, die publikasie van die nuwe kookboek van Sean Brock en rsquos, eenvoudig getiteld South, is 'n minimoment, selfs 'n soort van her-evaluering, vir die streek in die land bekend as die Suide. . . . Brock is 'n voorstander om na kos te kyk deur die wisselwerking tussen vier basiese temas: inboorlinge, immigrante, aardrykskunde en bestanddele. . . . Op sy eie manier is Brock nie net 'n historikus nie, maar ook 'n futuris. & Rdquo
& mdash Good Times Weekly (Santa Cruz)
 
& ldquo As u iemand wat die suidelike kookkuns hoor en hoor en dink en swaar kos, en die nuwe kookboek van Sean Brock en rsquos, van gedagte sal verander. Behalwe dat dit die heerlike diepte van die suidelike kombuis en die verskille tussen die suidelike gebiede toon, herinner Suid ons ook daaraan hoe eet ons met mekaar verbind. Brock hoop om die mites wat baie mense oor suidelike kookkuns het, uit die weg te ruim. & Rdquo
& mdash Santa Cruz Sentinel
 
& ldquo 'n Noodsaaklike gids in 'n suidelike kook- en rsquos -gereedskapstel. & rdquo
& mdash Louisiana Life

In hierdie meesterlike opvolging van sy James Beard-toekenning en ndashwinning   Heritage, merk Brock op: 'Die Amerikaanse suide het 'n geografiese gebied wat ongeveer gelyk is aan dié van kontinentale Europa.' sowel as die verskille wat bestaan ​​in die voedsel van die suidooste. Onder die meer as 125 resepte bevat 'n hoofstuk versnaperinge kraal uit die Laeveld, gebakte bologna met ingelegde perske mosterd uit Appalachia, en twee weergawes garnale en korrels. Die sjef en rsquos se liefde vir erfstuk-tamaties blyk nie net uit in sy slaaie en bykosse nie, maar ook by geroosterde baber met skaars gekookte tamaties, sowel as 'n rabarber-tamatiekonserwe wat goed pas by pluimvee. Die resep vir basiese mieliebrood word vergesel van vier variasies, insluitend 'n & lsquosour & rsquo -weergawe wat 'n mieliemeel-, karringmelk- en spekvetmengsel vir drie dae vergis. 'N Rooster is die voorkeurbron vir hitte vir baie geregte, insluitend geroosterde kwartels met rooi-sous, terwyl blikkieskoekies 'n uitstekende hoofstuk van bewaarde spensitems wat waatlemoenmelasse bevat, waardeer. Brock dra sy suidelike hart op sy mou in hierdie oorweldigende, virtuose versameling. & Rdquo  
& mdash Publishers Weekly, ster -resensie

& ldquo 'n Uitstekende bron vir plaaslike kookkuns in die suide. . . . Uitsonderlike foto's in volkleur vertoon pragtig resepte, soos ingelegde perskes, gebraaide okra, karringmelktert en Brock & rsquos gebakte hoender. Vir vegetariërs en veganiste is daar 'n paar wonderlike resepte vir vars groente, insluitend gebakte groen tamaties en eiervrugte. kulinêre repertoire. & rdquo
& mdash Library Journal, ster -resensie

& ldquo South  is 'n spelwisselaar en kan genoem word   The Southern Bible of Cooking. Sean het een van die mooiste en kragtigste boeke oor suidelike kos gemaak wat ooit geskryf is. & Rdquo
& mdash Frank Stitt, sjef/eienaar en skrywer van   Frank Stitt & rsquos Southern Table
 
& ldquoSean is een van die grootste kampioene in Suid -Afrikaanse kos en rsquos. Met hierdie kookboek het hy sy kennis oor en liefde vir hierdie streek en voedsel in die omgewing gedistilleer tot 'n padkaart wat almal kan gebruik om 'n beter, meer vervulde kok te wees. Volg dit en word beloon met kos wat u verbind met 'n gevoel van plek en die ware siel van die Suide oproep. & Rdquo
& mdash Ashley Christensen, sjef en skrywer
 
Elke streek, oral, benodig 'n Sean Brock! Sean herinner ons daaraan wat dit werklik beteken om Suid -Afrikaanse kos te eet en te kook en hoe ons almal beter bewaarders kan wees van die heerlike bestanddele wat ons in ons eie dele van die wêreld beskikbaar het. Ons is ongelooflik gelukkig om 'n voorsmakie te kry van wat hy weet in   Suid. & Rdquo
& ndash David Chang sjef/stigter van Momofuku
 
Met prosa, passie en foto's, vee Sean Brock ons ​​gesaghebbend deur sy suide, die land van garnale en oesters, poke slaai, tamaties en morels, met resepte wat ontwerp is om tuis te kook, of dit nou gebraai word, gebraai word, of gestoof of gekook word vir groepe vriende of net 'n paar. Hy bevat 'n paar van my gunsteling resepte, insluitend karamelkoek, wat tuis gedoen kan word, sonder spesiale toerusting en altyd heerlik. & Rdquo
& mdash Nathalie Dupree, kookboekskrywer
 
& ldquoSean Brock verstaan ​​dat die Amerikaanse Suide meer as een streek en meer as een kombuis is. Hy verstaan ​​dat dit Amerikaans is, ja, maar ook Wes -Afrikaans en Europees. Hy verstaan ​​dat, of jy dit nou weet of nie, 'n kookboek is wat deur eeue se suidelike sensitiwiteit gedistilleer en gefiltreer is. Lees dit vir die geskiedenis. Kook dit vir die resepte. & Rdquo
& mdash Lolis Eric Elie, kosskrywer
 
Ek is lief vir Sean & rsquos kook, want dit doen dieselfde vir my as wat 'n goeie liedjie doen: dit vervoer my na 'n ander plek, dikwels een wat bestaan ​​uit my kinderherinneringe uit die suide. & rdquo
& mdash Jason Isbell, musikant

Oor die skrywer

Sean Brock is die stigterskok van die bekroonde Husk-restaurante en die sjef/eienaar van Audrey, wat volgende jaar in Nashville open. Sy eerste boek, Heritage, was die wenner van die James Beard-toekenning vir die beste Amerikaanse kookboek en die IACP Julia Child First Book-toekenning in 2015 en word deur die New York Times genoem die sjef-kookboek van die jaar en die blou lint. Brock het die James Beard -toekenning vir beste sjef Suidoos in 2010 gewen en was 'n finalis vir Outstanding Chef in 2013, 2014 en 2015. Sy TV r & eacutesum & eacute sluit in Chef & rsquos Table en The Mind of a  Chef, waarvoor hy genomineer is vir 'n Emmy. Brock is grootgemaak in die platteland van Virginia en is passievol oor die bewaring en herstel van erfstukke. Hy woon in Nashville, Tennessee. Soek hom op Instagram @hseanbrock.


James Beard en die impak daarvan om gay te wees

David: Hier kom die groot vraag: Hoe het sy gay -lewe sy loopbaan gevorm of bevoordeel, en hoe het mense hom aanvaar?

John: Hy het nooit erken dat hy in die openbaar gay was nie, en daarom het hy nooit uitgekom nie. Hy is gebore in 1903, hy is oorlede aan die begin van 1985. As 'n jong man wat grootgeword het in Portland, Oregon, was die omstandighede daar nie anders as werklik nêrens anders in die Verenigde State nie, hoewel hulle hul eie dinamika gehad het. Maar daar was regtig ernstige gevolge om destyds in die openbaar as gay te wees, en daar was regsgevolge. Dit kan u loopbaan verwoes. There was even a eugenics law, if you were convicted of lewdness or perversion, which is what queer people would be convicted of, you might have to undergo forced sterilization under eugenics laws.

David: When did that law finally come off the books?

John: Yeah, so the law went on the books in 1917 and it wasn’t until 1983 when it was erased from the books. I mean, it had sort of gone dormant, people weren’t being forcibly sterilized since, I don’t know when the last examples were, probably the 1930s, but it was still there on the books. Of course, not just gay men, but people with cognitive disabilities and people convicted of sex crimes.

John: Yeah, so it was a brutal time for LGBTQ Americans and it wasn’t like you could come out, you could say, in the 1950s and even the 1960s, I mean, you couldn’t let people publicly know that you were queer and just resume the life that you had before. It would change everything. For somebody like James Beard who relied on selling cookbooks to a mainstream, somewhat conservative, audience of…

David: Mostly female.

: Sam Falk

John: …yeah, mostly female, although one of his accomplishments was that he broadened interest in American food to include men as well, partly because of his own presence, and in large degree because of the cooking classes that he conducted. A lot of men, sometimes with their wives would sign up for those. Even in the 1970s, after gay liberation had begun after the Stonewall riots of 1969, it wasn’t a safe thing to do by any means. Beard was a national figure by that point. He had so much to lose. It just really wasn’t a possibility, nor would his publisher or editors have allowed that to happen because it would have made his book sales plummet.

Renee: I think we forget, even though things aren’t equal by any stretch of the imagination today, we forget what you just said, which is that you couldn’t just make an announcement and continue on. Everything changed.

John: Right, everything changed. I mean, Craig Claiborne, for instance, came out publicly, really, at the end of his career. He was no longer food editor of Die New York Times. In 1982, he wrote a memoir called A Feast Made for Laughter. Admittedly, he came out in a really awkward way, talking about spooning with his father when he was a boy growing up in Mississippi.

David: Oh my.

John: It was a strange and awkward revelation, but I think it does point to how difficult it was to do that. Of course, even if, in the 1970s, there was relatively more acceptance generally of gay people, of gay civil rights, by the early 1980s, the AIDS/HIV crisis had re-stigmatized gay people in the eyes of America. I mean, Beard died at the beginning of 1985. It was later that year that the revelations about Rock Hudson came out and people’s reaction to that wasn’t generally one of compassion, it was one of shock, just trying to deal with the idea of this great symbol of male sexuality in Hollywood, this great leading man. How could he have been gay? So, it was not an easy thing and it wasn’t really possible for someone who had as mainstream a presence as Beard just to casually come out.

: James Beard Foundation


Julie Reiner on Making the Best Zero-Proof Drinks

More cocktail bars than ever before are offering alcohol-free drinks that are as interesting as their spirited counterparts. Julie Reiner, who has been offering creative alcohol-free mixed drinks since day one at Clover Club, says the key to making these drinks great at home is to treat the recipe like you would a traditional cocktail, always considering balance and presentation. &ldquoA lot of times, people want to put a bunch of juices together and not use any citrus. Pineapple, orange and cranberry&mdashthat&rsquos just a mixed juice,&rdquo she says.

Start by looking to classic cocktail recipes for inspiration. At Clover Club, Reiner omits the booze from the French 75 and uses a bitter lemon soda to achieve a similar complexity in her Faux 75. In the Juniper & Tonic, a housemade juniper syrup lends the same botanical flavor to the booze-less gin and tonic. In both recipes, the soda provides much of the depth of flavor. &ldquoA lot of the times when I&rsquom making alcohol-free drinks for people who like to drink, I try to use something with a bitter note, because it kind of tricks the mind into thinking there&rsquos alcohol in it. Something like Fever Tree bitter lemon soda, or tonic with quinine.&rdquo

If you&rsquore feeling ambitious and want to create a recipe from scratch, start with a base citrus, like lime, lemon or grapefruit juice. Then, pick a complementary syrup, like strawberry, thyme (or strawberry-thyme!) or saffron. Reiner uses a 1:1 ratio of simple syrup, citrus and water to achieve proper balance. Fresh herbs or muddled fruit can also take the place of a flavored syrup (in which case just use simple syrup for sweetness). If the drink tastes too sugary, try topping it with club soda or tonic water. At Leyenda, Reiner makes a ginger-mint-lemon drink that&rsquos become a favorite among her customers. &ldquoJust muddle mint into ginger syrup and add 1:1 fresh lemon and water,&rdquo she says. &ldquoIt&rsquos so good. You have the sharpness of the ginger, a little fresh mint flavor, and the backbone of the whole thing is a lemonade.&rdquo She recommends cucumber, mint and lime as another excellent combination that&rsquos not often found outside the cocktail realm.

Coffee can be a popular ingredient in zero-proof drinks, like the Tart Nut from Madcap Coffee in Grand Rapids and The World in All It&rsquos Youth from Pinewood Social in Nashville (more on the trend here). Shrubs add a tangy element to drinks like the World&rsquos Collide and this Apricot Shrub Soda, and tea can also be brewed into recipes. &ldquoTea offers a world of flavors that you can&rsquot get in juices or fruits,&rdquo Reiner says. Brew a strong tea and pair it with soda, citrus and other ingredients, like Reiner does with jasmine green tea, which she pairs with peach nectar and fresh lime, or how Oak on Fourteenth in Boulder makes the Tea Time cocktail with green tea, lavender syrup, lemon juice and ginger beer. The Tuscan Iced Tea from American Tea Room in Los Angeles uses rooibos as a base. &ldquoWe had a cocktail on our menu using a mint tea syrup that was very versatile,&rdquo Reiner says, adding that to make a tea syrup, you simply brew a strong tea and add equal parts sugar in the same way you would make simple syrup. Not comfortable winging it? Try this Chamomile Tea Syrup with fresh lemon juice and club soda to start.

Many bars incorporate bitters into their booze-free drinks, though since bitters are actually made with alcohol, that option isn&rsquot always right for everyone. &ldquoBitters can help an alcohol-free drink tremendously,&rdquo says Reiner. &rdquo As I said before, the bitter element tricks the brain into believing that you&rsquore actually having a cocktail.&rdquo Try celery bitters with tonic water or molé bitters in cola for simple pairings. In the Hendricks &ldquoCocktail&rdquo from Five Watt Coffee in Minneapolis, grapefruit bitters help balance cold-press coffee, juniper-basil syrup and half-and-half, and orange bitters complete the alcohol-free version of the New England Buck from Craigie on Main.

Finally, don&rsquot skimp on the presentation. The best zero-proof drinks mimic the experience of drinking a real cocktail, so put plenty of thought into your glass and garnish. &ldquoWe drink with our eyes first, so make sure it looks like a cocktail,&rdquo Reiner says.


Community Reviews

I wish I had heard about Lucky Peach when I could still get my hands on the first issue. The second issue was good with some real stand out moments, but from what I&aposve heard it wasn&apost as soon as that first cohesive issue about ramen.

This issue "The Sweet Spot" was less cohesive. It could cover any "sweet spots" in our lives from the perfect amount of time kimchi should ferment, to how long you should age a great steak, to the year when Ferran Adria changed the face of food, to the most succulent I wish I had heard about Lucky Peach when I could still get my hands on the first issue. The second issue was good with some real stand out moments, but from what I've heard it wasn't as soon as that first cohesive issue about ramen.

This issue "The Sweet Spot" was less cohesive. It could cover any "sweet spots" in our lives from the perfect amount of time kimchi should ferment, to how long you should age a great steak, to the year when Ferran Adria changed the face of food, to the most succulent tastes of first love/lust and apricots.

I liked a few of the articles while others fell short. The section on apricots was both fascinating nostalgic. The section on ike jime was informative and I loved the great pictures describing whether food improves the longer it sits in the fridge (kimchi improves, white wine does not). I also loved a few of the recipes in the magazine, particularly the recipe for Arnold Palmer cake from Milk Bar.

I'm glad I asked my parents to get me a subscription for next year to this magazine. It only comes out once every 4 months, but I suggest going to a local bookstore to purchase this current issue. It's full of great information, great pictures, and some cute fun anecdotes. I'm looking forward to reading the other issues. . meer

This past Monday was an especially good day for my inner food magazine critic as I had the opportunity to attend a presentation by Peter Meehan, a food writer, and David Chang, chef and owner of the restaurant Momofuku, whose most recent collaboration is Lucky Peach, a “quarterly journal of food and writing” produced by McSweeney’s.

But Lucky Peach is no ordinary cooking mag. If you’re thinking Bon Appetit, Saveur, or Cooking Light, you’re way off course. Lucky Peach is what would happen if Rober This past Monday was an especially good day for my inner food magazine critic as I had the opportunity to attend a presentation by Peter Meehan, a food writer, and David Chang, chef and owner of the restaurant Momofuku, whose most recent collaboration is Lucky Peach, a “quarterly journal of food and writing” produced by McSweeney’s.

But Lucky Peach is no ordinary cooking mag. If you’re thinking Bon Appetit, Saveur, or Cooking Light, you’re way off course. Lucky Peach is what would happen if Robert Crumb, the macabre and very graphic comic artist, and Gordon Ramsay, the testosterone-laden, macho, British chef-turned-reality-food-TV-star, were put in a jail cell together with some colored pencils and a whole pig. In fact, the cover design for the newest edition (not yet out, but graciously provided to the participants at the talk yesterday), pictures a slaughtered pig leg being decorated by a tattoo artist with a butcher’s diagram of a person. Picture an outline of the human form segmented with dotted lines and marked ‘wing’ (arms), ‘ham’ (legs), ‘breast,’ and ‘tenderloin’ (you can probably guess where that is), being etched onto a severed, but otherwise intact pig’s leg.

I first stumbled across Lucky Peach at a local bookstore where I was browsing magazines for some post-holiday culinary inspiration. While the other cooking magazines had pictures of “detoxifying” New Year’s broths, or “diet proof” macaroni and cheese recipes, Lucky Peach had a picture of a dead fish, dripping with blood, on a butcher block with cartoon flies swarming around it. The content and images inside pretty much matched the tone of the cover—comic book depictions of rotted tomatoes and articles with titles intended to make the fourteen-year-old boy in all of us snicker.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to pose the question of who they think their demographic is, and was answered with something like the following.

Meehan: “We have no idea who our demographic is, and we don’t really care.”

Chang: “We just want to make a magazine that we don’t think sucks.”

Meehan: “We don’t want to pander to anyone, we just want to write to people who share our sensibilities and like what we like.”

Well, there’s pandering, and then there’s its opposite, self-gratification (I think there’s a word for that…), and Chang and Meehan are certainly not pandering. To suggest that they aren’t trying to fill a certain niche, which I’ll grant may not have been predefined, is either ignorant or arrogant, and I can’t decide which is more likely the case.

To Lucky Peach’s credit, the magazine, in typical McSweeney fashion (and I mean that as a compliment), is original, visually stimulating, and fun to read, and Meehan and Chang are no Bevis and Butthead. The two are charming and intelligent, if in a teenaged, stick-it-to-the-man sort of way, and their combined passion for food and writing is certainly entertaining. The recipes, admittedly not intended to be reproduced by most of their readers, are at least interesting to imagine, and the writing is very sharp, but the angst-y humor eventually becomes trite, the way a joke isn’t funny after the second or third time you hear it.

I may be religious, but I’m no Polly-Anna, and I can tell a frat party from a dinner party when I see one. If Lucky Peach is to retain a regular spot on the back of my toilet it’s going to have to imagine a broader audience than it currently does. I love food and I love writing, but I don’t love being the bystander to someone else’s inside joke, especially not for $12 a pop. Trying to imagine who might read their magazine, and that we might get tired of Meehan and Chang’s pubescent humor is not so much pandering as, well, just not being so self-impressed. Then again, maybe there are enough 14 year-old-boys out there who love gourmet food and witty writing that Lucky Peach won’t need anybody else’s readership.


The Much-Hyped Fuku Comes to Dallas

The story behind—and the amazing hunt for—a fried chicken sandwich from chef David Chang of Momofuku fame.

It was bound to happen. Someone was bound to marry the notions of the fried chicken sandwich and exclusive delivery. That someone, of course, as we are currently well aware, was celebrity chef David Chang.

The news dropped Monday that the diminutively named Fuku, the delivery-only fried-chicken operation from the lauded chef, would open April 6 in Dallas and Plano (Houston, too). And all of a sudden, it was the subject of near hysteria with buzzwords like “David Chang!” “Delivery-only!” “Chicken sando!” making the rounds on Twitter and Instagram.

What beckoned was the dreamed-for golden, craggy fried chicken cutlet, the squishy bun, the sliver of crinkly-edged pickle, as though trimmed with pinking sheers, the anointing layer of sauce, from the land of umami Technicolor. (Fuku’s got saucy fingers, too, but I went with a diet of sandwiches.)

Fuku operates out of ghost kitchens in partnership with Reef Kitchens under the umbrella of Reef Technology, a company that makes liaisons between restaurateurs and local diners to Grubhub, DoorDash, Uber Eats, and Postmates and food truck ghost kitchens cooking from underutilized urban spaces like parking garages and parking lots. Now we have two such ghost kitchens serving Dallas and Plano.

You could say the fast-casual New York City delivery-only concept is utterly COVID-born—born of the itch for comfort and cravings contactlessly filled. Those who have followed the story know that’s not entirely true. The James Beard Award–winning chef’s Michelin-star restaurant Momofuku Noodle Bar opened in 2004. Since then, he has spread his embrace to the Momofuku restaurant brand with locales as far-flung as Sydney and Toronto, but also through popular TV series Die verstand van 'n sjef en Ugly Delicious and, for a while, the now-defunct food magazine quarterly Lucky Peach, which bristled with the same irreverent, rebellious spirit. And now comes the COVID dream of fried fowl beauty, wedged between two squishy buns, delivered straight to your home.

If you want to get really nerdy about it, before the spicy chicken sandwich, there was the habanero fried chicken from Ma Pêche. (You’ll recognize the same green and orangey-peach branding that’s become iconic—that tiny leaf and the pop of color, once a peach, now become a pop-art pow!) You could also find two whole fried birds—one Southern-style, one glazed Korean style served with mu shu pancakes—at Momofuku Noodle Bar for a cool $150. And the original Fuku sandwich in question was purportedly an off-menu item at Momofuku Noodle Bar, whose location in the East Village became Fuku’s first brick and mortar.

The original Fuku sandwich in question was purportedly an off-menu item at Momofuku Noodle Bar.

The Fuku timeline begins when brick and mortars sprang up in New York, Boston, Los Angeles, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C. in 2015—announced, for what it’s worth, at Austin’s SXSW—with their own menus that included the likes of kale-farro salad or mac and cheese. And then the brand pivoted and piloted the ghost kitchen model in New York in April 2020, mid-pandemic. From there, it hit Washington, D.C., Philadelphia, Miami, Portland. The model swiftly expanding and scalable in partnership with Reef.

All of that is backdrop to, and context for, understanding why it’s a big deal and why it would, essentially, take any city by storm.

The reality, of course, is that such a roll-out involves four delivery services and human bodies and provisioning and our ever-ravenous city.

I found myself in a parking lot on Houston Street near the historic West End, tucked under the freeway overpass, with a mural—geometric shapes, flowers, and the word “LOVE”—sprawled along one wall of an adjacent parking structure. We—a few non-affiliated walk-ups and a gaggle of delivery people—clustered around the single food truck emblazoned Reef Technology. We shifted to keep our distance in masks as we faced the window, expectantly. A pile of sealed to-go bags languished in the sunshine, unclaimed.

An hour and a half earlier, I had placed an order. It was canceled after 45 minutes. A try with another delivery service yielded shifts in drivers and another cancellation (there were, the explanatory message told me, no available drivers). I decided to try my luck with pick-up. The parking lot was 10 minutes from my home. I went myself.

And so I found myself in this enclave: Two food trucks, only one of which was cooking for Fuku a delivery truck (they’d already experienced shortages that morning) and crew members periodically off-loading Martin’s potato rolls or cases of Dasani water.

One walk-up customer would-be sandwich-eater, there with his son napping in a stroller, had put in an order at noon and been there since 12:30pm. It was now 2:20pm. His toddler was copacetic. His own work was flexible—he would work later that night to compensate for the several-hour gap.

One delivery person had been waiting an hour. He was “disappointed,” he said. He was losing income on other deliveries. Another had snagged one order, delivered it, and was working on another—11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and he was looking at his second delivery. None wanted to give their names. But they talked strategy: not confirming that the food was ready, because then the customer expects it, but not confirming might mean a customer losing their patience.

Uber Eats offers compensation for waits past 25 minutes, one said. Postmates was paying one driver with a 10-star rating 10 cents per minute delay. If they didn’t have the rating, they judged: better to cancel the order and cut losses? How would this affect their ratings? “As long as I’m communicating with them,” one said. Hopefully they get it, he said: It’s a hype.

“I hope my wife likes it,” the man with the stroller offered.

We switch to a roll-call system. The Reef Technology employee handling the melée, keeping us from tapping at the window and distracting the cook, makes an executive decision to stop the flood coming in from delivery apps and take care of the people in front of him, slotting us in. We show him the orders on our phones. He photographs them. Shows them to the cook. They’ll fire them off to-order. We wait, some of us (like me) coming up on our one and a half hour or two hour mark.

They are experiencing, the helpless middleman says, “a catastrophic meltdown.”

All of this will be addressed in the 6 o’clock meeting, he says. A train rumbles by on the freight tracks.

And I can’t help thinking that the proposition is wild: One food truck feeding the entire Dallas frenzy.

So I did not experience the deliver-to-your-door reality, quite.

And the food. Was it worth the wait? Did it earn the hype?

At home, I survey the spread splayed in front of me. The Knockout with coleslaw is quite good—sweet, spicy, creamy—with a juicy chicken breast, golden breading, and a soft bun. Yes, the bun is just a commercial potato bun. But the chicken does stay crispy. The orangey-pink tinged mayo sings of chiles and sweetness. There were no pickles. They may have run out of pickles. The version that’s supposed to be slathered with buttermilk ranch and bacon is missing its oozing ranch.

And what about the crispness of those fries? Are the crinkle-cut waffle fries crispy? They are. Pleasantly so, though the mixture of what seems to be sugar and powdered jalapeño that gives them the name sweet jalapeño fries is barely detectable.

Much more pronounced is the glow from the habanero brine on the chicken breasts, which jives with the golden, shaggy crust. The heat lingers long with a complex fire.

If you had asked me last April, when the first delivery-only Fuku launched in New York City, if I thought sandwiches from ghost kitchens in parking lots, delivered (presumably) to my door would be the future, I would have said yes. Not the specifics. But I do think, like many others, I saw the writing was on the wall.

The goal for Fuku, according to a press release, is to expand its presence in the Dallas-Fort Worth area by the end of May, with up to six ghost kitchens. I’m sure they’ll have the kinks ironed out by then.


The 23 Instant Pot Cookbooks You Need To Master Your Pressure Cooker

So you've bought an Instant Pot welcome to the club! If you're not as enthusiastic as every other Instant Pot owner seems to be, we get it. It's hard to master the sucker. So instead of suffering through experimental, rubbery chicken breasts and soggy grain dishes, let the experts lead the way. We've got 24 pressure cooker cookbooks&mdashmany authorized by Instant Pot&mdashto get you started. These cover everything you need to know: tips and tricks, vegan recipes, keto recipes, and recipes for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Filipino food typically relies on long, flavor-inducing broils in dishes like Sinigang na Baboy (pork tamarind soup) and Putong Puti (steamed rice cake) &mdash which makes this cuisine a perfect match for your Instant Pot!

Learn how to make heart-healthy favorite from Turkey, Greece, North African and more in this recipe book.

For Instant Pot newbies, this cookbook is a great place to start. Seriously, these recipes are so detailed, they're basically fool-proof.

Most people think of their instant pot in terms of meals, but if you don't use it to make desserts &mdash you're missing out. Sweet treats like Salted Caramel Cheesecake, Classic Rice Pudding, and Brown Sugar Peach Cobbler are just waiting to be made.

Tired of wasting food? This cookbook has tons of delicious recipes like Apple-Cinnamon French Toast Cups and Shawarma-Style Chicken and Rice &mdash all perfectly proportioned for two people!

This is your must-have Instant Pot recipe resource for game day, dinner parties, brunch, party bites, dips, and desserts. We packed it with more than 70+ recipes for wings, meatballs, sliders, ribs, chili, tacos, monkey bread, frittata, hash, banana bread, cobbler, and much more. If you can dream about eating it, the Delish staff found a way to make it in an Instant Pot. Jy. Need. This.

James Beard Award&ndashwinning author Madhur Jaffrey is credited with introducing America to Indian food. After penning more than a dozen cookbooks on the cuisine, she finally wrote a tome about cooking Indian food in the Instant Pot. To complete your one-pot meal, Jaffrey includes 13 non-pressure cooker recipes, like chutneys, relishes, and salads.

Cooking for the whole fam? This book's got your back, offering meals that'll appease everyone (yes, almal), allowing you to spend more QT together. Alongside delicious recipes&mdashlike honey barbecue wings and Thai basil noodles with beef&mdashyou'll find tips and tricks to utilize your Instant Pot to the fullest.

Alright, all you keto stragglers who've been avoiding the eating plan because it "takes too much work," allow us to introduce you to your new best friend. Most of the 65 recipes included in this cookbook take only 45 minutes to make from start to finish&mdashand so much of that isn't even active cooking time. You'll get an intro to keto, too, and how to meet your macros and follow the diet.

If you love your old-school slow cooker as much as your new-fangled Instant Pot, you'll find recipes that work for both small appliances in here. All the meals can be made by dumping ingredients straight from the freezer into the pot, too. Easy and simple.

Milk Street founder Christopher Kimball wants to teach you all about the flexibility of you Instant Pot&mdashlike the fact that you can still use it as a slow cooker. So most recipes come with two sets of directions, one for each setting. The food sticks to Milk Street's ethos: "fresh flavor combinations and innovative techniques from around the world."

This bible to the OG pressure cooker has recipes that are authorized for every single Instant Pot model. Plus, there are tips, too&mdashlike how to prevent grains from getting soppy and how to get your meat ultra tender.

What's great about the 24-recipe Instant Pot section in this cookbook, is the dietary guide on the index. Each dish is labeled Q (quick), V (vegetarian), GF (gluten-free), DF (dairy-free), and FF (freezer-friendly), as they apply.

Among this book's 2,530 reviews are comments including, "So far, every recipe made has been outstanding." and "Everyone should have this book if you own an Instant Pot!"

Author Coco Morante runs Instant Pot's official recipes page on Facebook&mdashso she might be the most qualified person to write a book like this.

No one has ever called risotto, osso buco, or coq au vin easy and simple&mdashuntil now. Recipes for all three that don't take all day to make are included in the book. As are the prettiest food shots you've ever seen.

You'll get a 101 crash course in Weight Watchers' new-ish Freestyle program en the Instant Pot with this one book. There are the normal dinner recipe suspects, but also 20 sorta-kinda good for you desserts.

So you're not interested in fall-off-the-bone meat Instant Pot recipes? That's cool. There are dozens of vegan dishes you can make in your pressure cooker, too.

Another colorful book for those interested in using their Instant Pots for a more plant-based lifestyle.

Presenting: a guide to how to cook literally everything you'd want on your Thanksgiving or Christmas table&mdashin an Instant Pot.

The recipe in here for butter chicken is so good, the cookbook author is now known in Instant Pot circles as the "Butter Chicken Lady." That dish, like many of the others in Indian Instant Pot Cookbook, are all about making complex Indian dishes approachable.

Brittany Williams used the Instant Pot to create recipes that helped her lose more than 100 pounds. After her blog about her experience went viral, she turned it into a cookbook. The result: recipes and meal plans that could help you drop pounds, too.

Mark Sisson, a Keto expert and the brains behind the popular Primal Kitchen brand, created this tome. It's dedicated to all-keto pressure cooker recipes&mdashmeaning they're low-carb and high-fat.

The recipes are great, but the uber-detailed instruction is almost even better. Plus, the cookbook is gorgeous, as most Williams-Sonoma things are.


Dinner Parties, Dining Spaces

Cleopatra Zuli also felt the need to create an experience that reflected aspects of her identity as “a black, androgynous, genderqueer person.” Ms. Zuli, 32, was raised by a queer mother and her gay brother, and she grew up immersed in vibrant dinner parties “reflective of our multifaceted African diaspora community.”

Inspired by the memory of these meals and, later, stumbling upon research illuminating the queer-friendly parties thrown by A’Lelia Walker at the height of the Harlem Renaissance, Ms. Zuli started BLK Palate in December 2017. The production company and collective, co-founded by Travis Young and Kendra Clarke, engineers dining events designed to honor and empower the black queer community through food and conversation.

BLK Palate is among a crop of reimagined dinner parties geared toward the L.G.B.T.Q. community in and around New York City. JaynesBeard — a private monthly supper club at city residences founded by Sabrina Chen, 39, and Alana McMillan, 32 — encompasses everything from cocktail parties to seated, plated meals by chefs such as Kristen Kish.

Big Gay Supper Club beckons guests out of the city to Megan Jo Collum and Jess Emrich’s property in New Milford, Conn., for homespun barbecues, potlucks and performances. And Babetown, a roving party for queer women, as well as trans and nonbinary people, sold out its first dinner in September 2016 in 48 hours. It is run by Alex Koones, 29, whom Ms. Alpern, of Queer Soup Night, credits with being one of the first to ignite the current dinner party craze.

On a recent Monday night, Ms. Alpern could be found greeting Bill Clark and Libby Willis at their monthly “queer industry night,” Family Meal. As owners of the self-described “very, very gay” MeMe’s Diner in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, Mr. Clark, 30, and Ms. Willis, 27, have become linchpins of the L.G.B.T.Q.-centric New York food community since opening in November 2017 (Cuties, a rainbow-fronted coffee shop with a community tab program and monthly “Queers, Coffee & Donuts” sidewalk cookouts, is a hub for those in Los Angeles).

“We’re big fans of MeMe’s,” said Jarry’s Mr. Volger. “That was one of the first times we saw articulated what it meant to be sort of a queer restaurant.”

Mr. Volger, too, was at MeMe’s Diner’s party, and as the room began to swell and guests began to double-fist vegan peanut soft serve and Rainbow Kiss cocktails, the elusive concept of a “queer restaurant” began to crystallize. It wasn’t about a particular type of cuisine (despite the rainbow sprinkles dusting the ice cream). It wasn’t about symbology or décor. It was about the people in the room: industry insiders and outsiders who had largely felt, at one point or another, marginalized by a world that they had begun to reclaim, meal by meal.

“If you essentially don’t have a seat at the table,” Lalito’s Mr. Gonzalez said, “just build your own table.”


Kyk die video: Lucky Peach. David Chang u0026 Peter Meehan. Talks at Google